| A Review of
Frank Pepe's Pizzeria Napolentana (Pepe's Pizza) Exclusive review for
pizzatherapy.com
Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria
Napoletana
157 Wooster Street
New Haven, CT
Of course I’ve been hearing about it for years, even in Washington D.C., where I live. I met one of the owners of Two Amys, a hot Neapolitan pizzeria making a name for itself there. Turns out he’s from Connecticut and knows Pepe’s well. (He also mentioned Sally’s Pizzeria, just down the street from Pepe’s, as one of his inspirations.) At Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria, as at Two Amys, by dinner hour there’s a line down the block waiting to get in.
Rick Thornly blew into
town from Maine, and it turns out that a Pepe’s
run is de
rigueur for him. Finally my chance.
So how was it? In a
word: Outstanding! Maybe it’s the super-hot coal-fired oven,
the fine, fresh pizza flour, the fresh toppings, or the
bright seasonings, artfully tossed on these homey pies. Most
assuredly, it’s all of the above plus the old-fashioned
early-to-mid-century ambience of the rooms, the booths, the
friendly staff and jovial clientele—the whole neighborhood.
It was and is an experience.
Situated in the center
of Little Italy, the neighborhood is as much a
social/residential as it is a culinary heart of New Haven.
Wooster Street, where Pepe’s is located, is lined with brick
buildings from the 1800s. It’s a street where people live,
hang out, mingle, converse. It’s alive with Neapolitan
conviviality. Friends and strangers alike chat amicably in
and around the half-dozen Italian eateries, cafes, stores,
and social clubs, enjoying the balmy July evening.
But really, and most
essentially, it’s about the pie. Pepe’s does pizza. Period.
And the toppings are authentically Italian with a distinct
Neapolitan sensibility: generous, down to Earth, full of
life. And real! The crust is thin and light, but sturdy
enough to embrace your wildest toppings fantasy. The
extremely high oven temperature renders a crisp, delicate
crust that snaps when you bite into it, then melts in your
mouth.
We opened with Mark’s
perennial starter, the clam pizza. Guess what? The clams are
FRESH. And bountiful. Scrumptious, a white pie with a hint
of garlic and a dash of Italian herbs. The hot oven allowed
the clams to crisp ever-so-slightly, while remaining
succulent within. There’s an art to cooking this white pie
to perfection, a little burnt around the edges, while
protecting the delicate clam.
We ordered the second
pie, round-robin, each of my intrepid companions adding a
request. We ended up with a large
sausage-mushroom-onion-bacon-spinach pizza that dazzled. So
much so that Rick jumped up and snapped a few photos. He’ll
send them along soon. Again, the ingredients were fresh and
authentic, the pomodoro sauce held it all together
masterfully—each mouthful was an adventure. Why was my
stomach so small when Pepe’s made my taste buds so grand! It
left us sated and happy, yet wanting more!
The solution was
simple, thanks to Rick and Eric. We ordered two to go. Then
we drove the 45 minutes up I-95 full of good cheer. Drive 45
minutes for a pizza? You bet. I’ll be back for “old
reliable” (as emblazoned on the take-out box under a
likeness of Frank Pepe proudly holding a pie). Old reliable
is right, given the rep the place has enjoyed for years. I
know Al has praised this place before on
Pizza
Therapy. I
concur. It’s now at the top of my list.
~ Rob Esposito
Washington D.C.
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